Busan’s rising mackerel restaurant, Guseo Branch, wins diners over with oven-grilled dishes
Walking along Geumjeong-ro, I spotted the restaurant’s sign. Luckily, there was no wait.
As soon as I opened the door, I was surprised by how much larger the dining area was than expected.
Even though it was the weekend, there were plenty of seats, and the tables were comfortably spaced apart. I could settle in without worrying about the diners next to me. This wasn’t one of those elaborately styled, Instagram-friendly restaurants.
That understated atmosphere was exactly what put me at ease. For someone who has come in for a filling meal, I thought, what matters isn’t pretty lighting but this kind of unpretentious comfort.
Can’t decide? A menu full of delicious choices
I sat down and opened the menu. Alongside grilled dishes such as grilled mackerel, seasoned grilled mackerel and Atka mackerel, there were braised mackerel, braised hairtail, mackerel braised with aged kimchi, and even charcoal-grilled pork.
I had assumed a fish restaurant would offer limited choices, but there was actually so much to consider that I spent a while studying the menu.
In the end, I ordered the grilled mackerel—the restaurant’s signature dish—and mackerel braised with kimchi, a combination I’ve always enjoyed.
A self-service bar with one key feature
When the main dishes arrived, they also brought three plates.
The three plates were a signal to help yourself at the self-service bar. Let’s take a look.
This is the self-service bar, located in one corner of the restaurant.
There were sauces and toppings for the various side dishes, as well as ingredients for making bibimbap. Since this is practically an essential part of the meal, supplies run out quickly—but when I asked for more, a staff member responded right away.
I vaguely remember seeing a review that raised several issues with this part of the service, but I had no problems at all. Perhaps the franchise had strengthened its staff training in the meantime.
Small touches like this ultimately translate into sales.
Restaurant owners shouldn’t forget that bringing customers back depends not only on the food but also on the quality of the service.
Not long after ordering, the grilled mackerel arrived, preceded by the enticing aroma of the oven.
Even before I took a bite, the color of the skin looked impressive. It was an even, deep brown, with lightly charred spots here and there that made it all the more appetizing.
The moment my chopsticks touched it, the skin cracked with a crisp sound. That one sound alone made me feel as though half the meal had already been won.
I picked off a piece of flesh and took a bite. As expected, the skin was wonderfully crisp, while the meat inside had an entirely different texture.
It was so tender and moist that its juices seemed almost to seep out. The restaurant’s claim that it grills the fish quickly at 480°C in a high-heat oven clearly wasn’t just talk.
There was none of that awkward in-between state so common at ordinary grilled-fish restaurants: the outside burnt while the inside remained undercooked, leaving behind a faint fishy smell.
They said they remove the dark membrane before grilling, and the fishiness was barely noticeable. I found myself alternating bite after bite with steamed white rice.
It was one of the most satisfying grilled-fish dishes I’d had in a long time—so good that I didn’t want to put down my chopsticks until I had picked nearly every bit of meat from the fish.
The mackerel and kimchi stew was impressive from the very first spoonful of broth
Next came the mackerel braised with kimchi.
The aroma that rushed out as soon as I lifted the lid of the earthenware pot was intense and promising.
It was a blend of the fermented tang unique to aged kimchi and the sharp heat of red pepper flakes.
When I tried a spoonful of the broth, it wasn’t simply hot and harsh. A deep savory flavor followed behind the spice. It was a rich broth that clearly showed the dish had been simmered for a long time.
The mackerel came apart softly along the grain when I flaked it with my chopsticks.
The sourness of the aged kimchi neatly cut through the mackerel’s natural richness, making it easy to keep reaching for another spoonful without feeling weighed down.
It was especially good mixed with the bibimbap. I’m sure it would have been delicious with plain white rice, too.
There was something quietly addictive about it, and by the end I was eating the broth on its own. Anyone who enjoys boldly seasoned, spicy food would be thoroughly satisfied.
Leaving with a satisfied belly
As I left, full and satisfied, my takeaway was simple.
This is a restaurant that makes its case with oven-grilled dishes alone. The crisp skin and tender meat of the grilled mackerel, along with the spicy broth of the mackerel and kimchi stew, were more than enough reason to come back.
I was probably lucky to enjoy such a relaxed meal without a wait this time. Next time, I’d like to visit during a busier period and see just how popular the restaurant really is.
This post was published using DecoBlocks.
